A Tribute to the Great Jean Harlow

Recently, I had the opportunity to shoot a retro/vintage shoot in a tribute to the infamous starlet of the silver screen, Jean Harlow.  The idea stemmed from Robinette Desrochers, one of my favorite and amazing creative directors to collaborate with.

If you are unfamiliar with who Jean Harlow was, just click the link above or google her name.  She was an amazing actress who lived during the glory days of film and cinema.

More Images and learn how I lit this after the jump

Planning was centered around finding the perfect model, location, and dress to mesh with the overall theme and concept.  Robinette did her homework and found the perfect dress.  Through social networking and some searching, we found Nikki Bowerbank to a wonderful fit in casting her as Jean Harlow.   

From the beginning, we did not want to copy or replicate Jean Harlow's portraits as we felt these have already been done and are a vital part of the past in which if we were to recreate them too the exact pose and look, it would be wrong.  Our goal was to embody the spirit and theme of the time, while still doing Jean Harlow justice.  

I did this by doing my homework and studying the old portraits of Hollywood Idols taken during the 1930's.  I carefully studied the lighting techniques and did some backwards engineering in building my scene and lighting Nikki.  Most of the lighting back then was simple Loupe Lighting and even some Rembrandt Lighting setups.  My original plan was to make all the images in the set black and white in post processing as colored photography was not around during that time.  However, in efforts to maintain individuality and make the shoot my own, I kept many of the images color with some clever post processing and curves adjustments.  

THE INITIAL LIGHTING SETUP

Initial Lighting Setup:
I started out with what would could be called a modified loupe setup in which I put my Elinchrom Quadra in a medium softbox camera left at a 45 degree vertical and nearly profile degree to Nikki's face to give that Loupe Lighting effect.  Remember Loupe Lighting refers to the "loop looking" shadow that is cast from the bulb of the nose.  Since the dress and the background were both white, I needed some type of separation or rim light to keep from loosing Nikki in the background.  I placed my trusty Nikon SB-800 bare camera left and behind the model. I carefully feathered the flash's light so it fell off the back of Nikki and cast a nice rim light without casting hard shadows to her face.

At this point, I noticed during any full length or 7/8's portraits, the softbox was not enough light to cover Nikki's entire body, especially the legs.  I switched out the softbox for a large Strip box to provide more adequate coverage.

ADDED REFLECTOR AND SWITCHED OUT SOFTBOXES

I also decided that I needed some fill opposite the key light, hence the addition or the reflector. In the image above, the SB-800 is still providing a rim, but is flagged by the reflector.  This gave Nikki more margin to move forward and backward without fear of the rim light spilling its hardness on her face.

For the headshots, I simply raised the SB-800 above Nikki's head to provide more of a hair light than rim light.  In the original photographs of Jean Harlow, the Hair light appears to be very strong and even blow out the hair a bit.  I removed the reflector as I wanted more of a true Loupe Light.

LIGHTING FOR HEADSHOTS: (Although the reflector can be seen, it is not contributing)

In the end, I am very proud of these images and feel that they are some of my best yet in my journey as a photographer.  I am nothing without the support and collaboration of the team that made this possible.  Any professional photographer know that he is only as good as his Makeup Artists and Hair Stylists.  Audrey and Cio, your talents sure were executed well in this concept.  Thanks for all you did.  Robin as always comes through with the concept, location, and organization of shoots and this was no exception... Thanks Robin! 

SO THIS IMAGE BROKE THE LIGHTING SCHEME OF THE ERA.  BEAUTY/BUTTERFLY LIGHTING DIDN'T COME IN FOR A FEW MORE DECADES--BUT I AM NOT ONE TO FOLLOW THE RULES AND I WANTED TO SHOWCASE THE SPECTACULAR WORK OF THE HAIR/MAKEUP AND MODEL'S BEAUTY

 A special word for Nikki Bowerbank, the model.  Throughout my career, I worked with my many models ranging from novice hobbyists to ones that pay their bills with their talents.  Nikki was professional, courteous, and knew how to move in front of the camera.  Those photographers reading this know exactly what I mean when I talk about models that cannot move, find their light, or don't change poses after each frame or flash.  Nikki moved each and every frame I snapped without hesitation.  She knew how to keep the shoot fresh, positive, and embody the concept and theme the director and I were after.  I highly recommend anyone to work with her.  And I'd be honored to collaborate with her in the future.

Feel free to comment or ask any questions you have about the images, post processing, or lighting setup.  I wish I had my team filming this one, but our production schedules and life doesn't always allow us to do so.  

On a final note, please join me each Monday in Framed's Equip Tips.  I've been receiving some negative feedback on the production value of the segments.  Please keep in mind this is free information for photographers' benefits and not about camera angles or cinematography.